Megan Lapides

Image by Daishi Naruse via Flickr

By Guest Blogger Elizabeth Kempton

We’d like to believe the salmon think about us as much as we think about them, but for the salmon- it’s all about the herring!

The herring are critical to the Haida Gwaii ecosystem, keeping it all in balance. The First Nations of Haida Gwaii refer to the herring as an “indicator species” and “cultural keystone species”, greatly recognizing their importance. In the Haida Gwaii culture, herring are referred to throughout history as a valuable resource and are to be protected. Some say, with spring the herring signify the food season, where life is coming back to Haida Gwaii.

The relatively shallow waters in Haida Gwaii, specifically, where Queen Charlotte Safaris goes to fish (in the Cartwright sound), are full of baitfish, including huge schools of herring, which provide perfect feeding grounds for the salmon. Each spring, the herring arrive by the thousands of tons to this pristine habitat on the B.C. coast, for their spawning ritual. Interestingly, herring can spawn for years throughout their lifespan, unlike salmon. This is ideal for the hungry, homeward-migrating salmon, where herring is most of their diet. Each spring, the salmon begin their migration from the Arctic southward in March, and they arrive to Haida Gwaii by April. Located right along the continental shelf, no matter where the salmon are headed home to spawn, they must all pass through Haida Gwaii. The salmon continue to migrate throughout the summer, wave-upon-wave, feeding on the herring, which uniquely allows Queen Charlotte Safaris to offer a lengthier fishing season than most. Three cheers for the herring that bring our beloved salmon!

Queen Charlotte Safaris is located in Haida Gwaii in the little town of Sandspit. Sandspit is on the east coast of Moresby Island. And if you didn’t know, we do all of our fishing off the west coast of the islands in Cartwright Sound. So how do we get there? Well, we definitely don’t go around the island, that would take way too long. Lucky for us, there is a channel that goes between the northern and southern main islands (Graham Island and Moresby Island respectively). This channel is the Skidegate Channel.

The Skidegate Channel is narrow, winding, and fairly shallow. The depth of the channel is greatly influenced the daily tides. Because of the constantly changing depths it can be difficult to navigate through, if not impossible, for typical fishing boats with outboard motors. Even up to a few years ago, we had to go out to fish and come back to the lodge with the tide to make sure it was safe to travel through the Skidegate Channel. This meant leaving to fish at different times every day and sometimes leaving to fish before the sun came up! But we now have an amazing fleet of jet boats, so our fishing times are no longer as influenced by the tide.

The travel from Sandspit to Cartwright Sound takes about an hour and it’s an incredible journey! The Skidegate Channel is a very scenic route, to say the least. The forests of Haida Gwaii go right up to the coasts, so the views from the boats are full of lush trees and little beaches. And not to mention all of the wildlife! Bald eagles often nest among the trees through the channel, and many can be seen flying and eating through this area. Deer and sometimes Haida Gwaii Black Bears can be seen on the beaches as well! The Skidegate Channel may be a long, winding journey, but we think it’s a journey well worth it.

Photo by David Gurr

Meet the Haida Gwaii black bear. These bears are endemic to Haida Gwaii, meaning that they are not found anywhere else in the world! The Haida Gwaii black bear is a subspecies of the American black bear and is considered the largest of the subspecies. Over time they have evolved to have a larger head, jaw, and molars to crack open crabs and barnacles more easily [1]. Unlike mainland subspecies of the American black bear, the Haida Gwaii black bears are exclusively black with tan muzzles. They are omnivorous, meaning they eat a mixture of shellfish, salmon, and greenery (including berries in the summer). They hibernate for three to five months during the winter and make their dens in hollow cedar trees or stumps. Females typically give birth in while they’re hibernating in January to two or three cubs before coming out of hibernation in April or May. Haida Gwaii black bear cubs stay with their mothers for about a year and a half before moving on to make a life of their own [2].

Haida Gwaii black bears serve as a keystone species to the islands, meaning their presence has changed their environment, and their ecosystem would not function the same way without them. A large part of the bears’ diets include salmon, and they tend to bring at least part of the salmon carcasses inland to the forests. As I stated in a past blog post about the difference between Chinook and Coho salmon, salmon carcasses release nitrogen and phosphorous into the environment as they decomposition. By bringing dead salmon into the forests, the bears are fertilizing the soil and promoting healthy plant growth [3].

The bears prefer to avoid areas on the islands that have high populations of people but will enter these areas when hunting or foraging. If you come across a bear on the islands, it is recommended by Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve to calmly leave the area. Bears typically will only attack people if they are startled or believe that their food source or cubs are being threatened [4]. They tend to prefer to mind their own business as they just want to live their lives and eat food like the rest of us!

[1] “Meet Haida Gwaii’s Black Bear,” Haida Tourism, accessed January 27, 2022, https://www.haidatourism.ca/news/blog-post-title-four-kp8hj.

[2] “Haida Gwaii Black Bear,” Bear Conservation, accessed January 27, 2022, http://www.bearconservation.org.uk/haida-gwaii-black-bear/.

[3] “Meet Haida Gwaii’s Black Bear.”

[4] Government of Canada Parks Canada Agency, “Bear Aware – Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site,” May 8, 2019, https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/securite-safety/ours-bears-1.

What are Chinook salmon?

Chinook salmon are also commonly known as king salmon as they are the largest salmon species. An average adult Chinook salmon is about 3 feet long and 30 pounds. But they can grow to be up to 4.9 feet and over 130 pounds! Chinook are born in rivers, spend their adulthood in the ocean, and return to the rivers to spawn. While in the ocean, Chinook have silver sides, white stomachs, and are blue green on their backs and the tops of their heads. They also have black spots on their upper bodies and tail fins and have black gums, which is where they got their nickname of “blackmouth”. Chinook change in color when they return to the river they were born in to spawn and become brown and or red. Spawning females have rounded noses, while spawning males have hooked noses [1]. Chinook meat is red in color, has an oily and flaky texture, and is rich taste [2].

Chinook Salmon

What are Coho salmon?

Coho salmon are also commonly known as silver salmon as they have silver sides and silvery blue backs. Adult Coho salmon that live in the ocean also have black spots on their backs and tails and they have lighter colored gumlines that Chinook. Like Chinook, Coho salmon return to the rivers they were born in to spawn and change in appearance when they do so. Spawning Coho are darker in color and have dark red sides. Spawning males have significantly hooked noses. At maturity, they are about 8 to 12 pounds and about 24 to 30 inches long [3].  Coho meat is pinkish-orange in color, has a flaky and firm texture, and a lighter taste that is even milder from larger Coho [4].

Coho Salmon

What do Chinook and Coho salmon have in common?

Chinook and Coho salmon have a lot in common. They both range from the coast of central California to Alaska and have similar life cycles. They are anadromous, meaning they hatch in freshwater rivers, mature in the river (a few months for Chinook and about a year for Coho), migrate to and live in the ocean for a few years (Chinook spend a little more time in the ocean than Coho), return to the stream or river they hatched in to spawn, and die after they spawn. Spawning females of both species make nests in the gravel at the bottom of rivers called redds for their eggs. When salmon die, they serve as great nutrients to the rivers’ ecosystems by providing nitrogen and phosphorous, creating a healthier environment for the eggs to develop and hatch [5].

[1] “Chinook Salmon,” NOAA Fisheries, May 27, 2021, Alaska, West Coast, https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/chinook-salmon.

[2] “Chinook Salmon,” Fish Watch, accessed January 27, 2022, https://www.fishwatch.gov/profiles/chinook-salmon.

[3] “Coho Salmon,” NOAA Fisheries, September 19, 2021, Alaska, West Coast, https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/coho-salmon.

[4] “Coho Salmon.”

[5] “Chinook Salmon,” May 27, 2021; “Coho Salmon.”

1. Longer days

June has the longest days of Summer with more daylight than the later months. More time with the sun up means more time fishing, touring, and having fun!

2. Less rain

Not only are June days the longest, but they are also the driest in Haida Gwaii! We never let the rain stop us from our fun activities, but that doesn’t mean we don’t prefer to spend our time warm and dry!

3. Better fishing

The early bird catches the worm! Or fish! Salmon begin their yearly migration from the Bering Sea in March and arrive in Haida Gwaii by the end of April. June is the beginning of the fishing season in Haida Gwaii, so there has been little to no fishing pressure on the fish during this time. And who doesn’t want to be among the first to fish of the season when it’s even more likely to get an amazing catch?

4. Less crowds

Did you know the busiest month of summer travel is July? Beat the travel crowds and go on your summer trip early! There will be less people in airports, on planes, and in Haida Gwaii!

5. Greater chance of seeing whales

Humpback whales migrate from Mexico and California up to Alaska in the late spring. June is the tail end of their travels and many of them pass through Haida Gwaii during this time (“Humpback Whale”). Humpback whales also tend to stick to the coasts at the beginning of summers for feeding, and because it’s the beginning of the fishing season, there’s more fish for them to eat!

Although there is a small population of grey whales that live year-round in British Columbia, most grey whales migrate from Mexico to Alaska in late spring and can be seen passing through the west coast of Canada in June (“Grey Whale”). Grey whales feed on small invertebrates in eelgrass beds that grow abundantly around Haida Gwaii which makes the islands a great place for a lunch break in June (“Eelgrass Beds”).

6. Best chance of seeing all other types of wildlife

In addition to whales, there are many other types of wildlife that are commonly seen in June. In June, you might see a northern fur seal during its migration to Alaska for the summer breading season (“Northern Fur Seal”). Sitka black-tailed deer are typically born in late May to early June, so it is the most likely to see a baby deer with its mother in June (“Sitka Black-Tailed Deer Biology”). And the Haida Gwaii black bears come out of hibernation with their cubs in May and are most commonly seen in June (“Haida Gwaii Black Bear”). Did you know that Haida Gwaii black bears are endemic to Haida Gwaii and can’t be seen anywhere else in the world?

7. Father’s Day

Is there a better way to celebrate Father’s Day than by fishing? We don’t think so. Here at Queen Charlotte Safaris we know how to celebrate. For this June holiday we have fun games, specialty cocktails, and a delicious surf and turf dinner!

Sources

“Eelgrass Beds.” Oceana Canada, https://oceana.ca/en/marine-life/eelgrass-beds/. Accessed 25 Feb. 2022.

“Grey Whale.” B.C. Cetacean Sightings Network, https://wildwhales.org/speciesid/whales/grey-whale/. Accessed 25 Feb. 2022.

“Haida Gwaii Black Bear.” Bear Conservation, http://www.bearconservation.org.uk/haida-gwaii-black-bear/. Accessed 27 Jan. 2022.

“Humpback Whale.” B.C. Cetacean Sightings Network, https://wildwhales.org/speciesid/whales/humpback-whale/. Accessed 25 Feb. 2022.

“Northern Fur Seal.” NOAA Fisheries, 8 Feb. 2022, https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/northern-fur-seal. Alaska, West Coast.

“Sitka Black-Tailed Deer Biology.” The Sitka Black-Tailed Deer Coalition, https://sitkablacktail.org/deer-biology. Accessed 25 Feb. 2022.

The first time I visited the Queen Charlotte Safaris I was eleven years old. It was my first time out of the U.S. and the first time I was going on a trip that centered around fishing. I grew up fishing as it was something that my dad made a priority to do every time we went camping at a lake. I enjoyed fishing, but it wasn’t something that I really loved. What I really loved was being with my family and having fun experiences. And this trip I experienced with my grandparents, parents, and brother. My grandparents and my dad had been to Queen Charlotte Safaris a few years prior, and it was a place that became very special to the three of them. Especially my grandfather. For him, fishing wasn’t just a hobby, fishing was part of his personality.

Flying into Sandspit was a unique experience. We were on the smallest plane I had ever been on, and probably the loudest, too, since it was a propeller plane. When we got off the plane and made it inside the one-gate airport, Valerie was waiting there for us with a warm smile and greeted us like we were family. Valerie’s warmth translates into the lodge as it felt like coming home when I first stepped inside. Comfy couches, big windows, and friendly faces everywhere from both the staff and other visitors.

The first day of fishing we woke up bright and early. Or I guess dark and early since the sun wasn’t up yet. I loved the yellow coveralls and jackets and the big rubber boots. I felt like an official fisherwoman! I was on a boat with my grandparents, dad, and brother and it was an unforgettable day. Not only did we catch some amazing fish (the biggest fish I’ve ever caught since the only fish I’d caught previously was rainbow trout), but we also saw some amazing things! I saw the stunning greenery of islands, too many bald eagles to count, and a humpback whale!

One of the best parts of that day was coming back into the lodge. We got to share stories with other people that were on different boats, talk about what we caught that day, and ate a delicious meal that was ready as soon as we were settled in. As a kid, I didn’t love meeting new people, but I genuinely enjoyed getting to sit with strangers at the dinner table and getting to know them. Every single person that I’ve met at the lodge has had such an interesting story and a unique perspective. It was a great learning experience for me, and it helped encourage me to talk to new people.

On another day of staying at the lodge, my brother and I didn’t go fishing, and instead spent the day with my mom and Valerie touring the island. We drove down the road to different rocky beaches, and even had to stop the car to let a black bear cross the road! After exploring the different rocky beaches, we went back to the lodge for lunch and some down time in the lounge area working on puzzles. While I was waiting for the rest of my family to come back in from fishing, I went across the road to the beach to look for sea glass and seashells. I picked up some amazing finds: large pieces of different colors of sea glass and so many different types of whole shells! It started my collection of sea glass and shells that I have in home today.

I’ve gone back to Queen Charlotte Safaris twice since then, and each time I counted down the days until I arrived and cried when I had to leave. The lodge is my home away from home and I have so many amazing stories and pictures to share from my experiences there. I never got to go back with my grandparents and my grandfather has since passed on. But it will always hold a special place in my heart that I got to have this experience and I will forever be grateful to my parents and grandparents for sharing it with me. I am so proud and excited that I now get to work for such an amazing lodge and an incredible human and I look forward to returning to the lodge this summer.